In August 2017, we did a three-day, two-night backpack trip in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest in Washington. John was 64 and I was 63.
We knew smoke from wildfires could obscure views of distant mountains, but the temperatures were in the 90s in the lowlands, so primarily we just wanted to get to a higher elevation for cooler temperatures.
We started out on the Snowgrass Hikers Trail. It was quite warm and we didn’t really see any smoke, but as we began to gain elevation, we could smell it and both of us had more trouble breathing. It was nothing serious; we just needed to maintain a very slow pace. However, it was demoralizing because the flies were voracious, and at such a slow pace, we were easy targets.
John backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We did our best to find the bright side and made a point of thoroughly enjoying the wildflowers.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We camped on Snowgrass Flats …
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… tucking our tent within the shade of the large rocks to the right in the above photo.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We made good use of our wind shirts to thwart the bugs.
Jean and John backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
After setting up camp, we did a short hike …
Old Snowy Mountain seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… and continued to enjoy the wildflowers.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We got on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and headed toward Old Snowy Mountain.
Old Snowy Mountain seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
Again, we admired the local views …
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… as when I looked in the distance, all I saw was haze.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
The PCT skirts Old Snowy, but snow can make it treacherous …
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… and some choose to take the alternate route that goes across the crest of Old Snowy.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
There was still a fair amount of snow for early August …
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… but it wasn’t an issue for us.
Jean hiking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We didn’t hike to the top of Old Snowy that evening. There just wasn’t any point to it as the smoke and haze obscured all the distant mountains. It was a bit frustrating as I knew Mount Rainier was out there somewhere. Fortunately, John had clear weather when he did his trip in 2014 and took many beautiful photos such as this one.
Mount Rainier seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
In fact, he got to see Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier from the same spot.
Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We headed back to camp …
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… passing some unusual rock on the way.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
The next morning, we headed to Cispus Basin …
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… and passed several lovely little waterfalls along the way.
John backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
These, along with the wildflowers, helped to compensate for the lack of distant mountain views.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We continued and then went off the trail to look for a campsite higher up in the basin.
Jean backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We set up our tent behind the smallest clump of trees in the middle of the photo below.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
It was a great campsite: shade, a breeze, nearby water, and a gorgeous view.
Jean and our camp in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We also had quite a few neighbors, the largest herd of mountain goats we have ever seen.
Mountain goats seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We counted at least 48.
Mountain goats seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
After grazing in the hot sun, they went to cool off by lying down on the snow.
Mountain goats seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
That afternoon, we did a short hike …
Jean hiking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
… up to Cispus Pass for a view of Gilbert Peak.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
After returning to camp, John went out to do photography in the golden evening light.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
This is a particularly beautiful mountain stream, and I love the way John photographed it, contrasting the rough rock with the fluid movement of the water.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, WashingtonSeen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
The next day, the air seemed clearer, at least up where we were.
Seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
We even got a brief look at Mount Adams before we hiked out.
Mount Adams seen while backpacking in Goat Rocks Wilderness within Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Washington
Unfortunately, smoke from wildfires is becoming a new normal in the western U.S. This isn’t the first time one of our backpack trips has been negatively impacted by it and I doubt it will be the last. We will just have to come back under better conditions. The area warrants it.
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