In May 2017, we did a four-day, three-night backpack trip in Grand Canyon National Park. We hiked down the Hermit Trail to camp by Hermit Rapids and then took the Tonto Trail over to Monument Creek where we would camp for two nights before hiking out on the Hermit. Our son, Dan, joined us. John was 64 and I was 63.
We had a great hike that first day …
… and enjoyed the expansive views we got as the trail descended.
We could see Hermit Creek Canyon below us.
We encountered Hermit Camp but walked past it. Most backpackers choose to stay at this large, well-established camping area and day hike to the river. But we prefer to camp by the river, so we took the side trail into Hermit Creek Canyon and continued down toward the rapids.
Hermit Creek Canyon is one of our favorite places in Grand Canyon …
… due to the lovely delicate salt crystal sculptures.
There are at least two well-developed campsites next to Hermit Creek shortly before the river and John and I have used one before. However, we prefer another site located downstream a bit and up next to the rocks. There was plenty of room for both of our tents as well as a spacious kitchen. We had been told by another backpacker it had been quite windy along the river the evening before, but the air was calm. However, we did put the flies on both tents just in case. The wind did pick up during the night, and we all received a light dusting of sand that snuck under the edge of the tent flies.
The next day was cloudy and windy. There was a chance of rain in the forecast, but we had experienced what is known as Arizona rain, or virga, which means rain that falls but evaporates before it reaches the ground. So, we were not yet concerned.
We began our hike up Hermit Canyon, and when it did start to drizzle, we put on our parkas.
However, it rained harder and lasted longer than we had ever experienced in the canyon. It wasn’t Arizona rain; it was Pacific Northwest rain. Having lived in the Seattle area for 33 years, we were all too familiar with it but not really prepared for it. We hurried toward the ledge we had hiked under on our way to the river the day before and hunkered down to wait it out. We ended up spending several hours there. None of us really had enough clothes to be comfortably warm while still being a bit wet.
An indication of how demoralized we were is the fact that none of us thought of taking any photos. The photo below was taken the day before, but it is in the same spot. After eating our morning snack and then our lunch, I got out the stove and heated water for hot lemonade. It did wonders for our spirits. Something I didn’t think about earlier was making hot water bottles. It wasn’t until right before we left that I added some hot water to knock the chill off my drinking water. John took my now comfortably warm water bottle and quickly stuffed it in his parka.
Finally, the rain stopped and we headed the rest of the way out of Hermit Canyon to the Tonto Trail. We only had four easy miles to go so our long break did not cause any concern. And there was plenty of time to photograph the beautiful clouds.
Such low clouds below the rim were something we had never seen during any of our previous trips in Grand Canyon.
The sight of them more than made up for getting so wet and cold earlier.
Later on, the sun came out and we could finally shed our parkas. As we approached our destination, we passed the side trail for Granite Rapids and when the Monument came into view, we knew we were very close to where we would camp.
The next day, we did a little exploration down Monument Creek. Something that does not seem to be common knowledge is that Monument Creek flows through a lovely little slot canyon. We would not have known about it the first time we had camped there if another backpacker had not told us about it. We have since talked to other backpackers who have stayed at Monument Creek (or planned to) who knew nothing about it. To get to it, you simply take the side trail signed “Creek” that is immediately down canyon from the last campsite. Then head downstream.
Granted, it is not the most dramatic slot canyon in the world, but we think it is quite attractive.
For the most part, it is a simple matter to go through it …
… although we made it harder for ourselves because none of us wanted to get our boots wet and none of us had brought water shoes.
Fortunately, we are all taller than average (at 5 feet 8 inches I was the shortest) …
… and were successful at staying out of the water. Although it was touch and go for me at times.
This little canyon may be short, but we spent quite a bit of time in it while both John and Dan took copious photos (like father, like son).
This was my favorite part of this trip. It is so much fun—like being a kid on a playground.
However, John and I are all too aware of our own mortality (and how breakable we are). Dan jumped down some of the obstacles, whereas we were a bit more cautious.
Usually, when I am in a situation where I need John’s assistance, we don’t have another photographer available to capture the moment. Even if I don’t need his help, John is (generally) wise enough to not take photos of me in undignified positions. But Dan doesn’t hesitate. Had this maneuver turned out badly, no doubt we would have a photographic record of it.
I would encourage backpackers camped at Monument Creek (or those who are just passing through) to explore this little slot canyon. Depending on your height or your ability, you might want to bring water shoes, or you might need to just be willing to get your boots wet. It would be worth it to feel like a kid again.
This little canyon ends quite near the base of the Monument. The easiest way back to camp is to continue down canyon until you encounter a wide gully on the left and head up the Granite Rapids side trail back to the Tonto Trail and then return to Monument camp.
When we got back to camp, we were soon joined by a Backcountry Ranger. He stopped by to compliment us on our clean camp. Well, we do know better than to leave anything remotely edible visible or accessible. And we know from personal experience ravens in Grand Canyon are adept at opening zippers on packs and pulling items out in search of food. Therefore, all our gear was hidden within our tents and the flies completely closed. All of our food was stored in a nylon food bag encased in an Outsak, a large pouch made from sturdy metal mesh. At night it would have been suspended from John’s tripod, but he had taken it with him so we had left our food bag sitting on a rock.
It looked undisturbed, but when I went to get our lunch out, I noticed a few small holes in the bottom of the nylon bag and one bag of John’s morning Tang had been just barely punctured. I examined the bottom of the Outsak and noticed it had been mangled a bit. Earlier we had noticed a rather plump ground squirrel keenly observing us. Undoubtedly, after we had left earlier, he launched a determined and potentially painful attack on our food. He was unsuccessful except for getting just the smallest taste of some Tang. It must have been quite a disappointment to this squirrel who was probably accustomed to getting a free meal from less conscientious backpackers.
After eating lunch, we headed back up the Tonto Trail to the side trail and hiked down canyon …
… to Granite Rapids. We saw several suitable campsites, but all were unoccupied. For backpackers seeking more solitude than is available at Monument Creek, this would be a worthy destination.
The next day, we headed out on the Tonto toward the Hermit Trail.
From the Tonto Trail, we could see Hermit Rapids where we camped the first night.
We could also see up to the rim …
… but to get there we first had to get up the Cathedral Stairs …
… as well as negotiate the rougher sections of this otherwise well-maintained and (relatively) easy trail.
Hiking within Grand Canyon isn’t always about the expansive views. The cacti were blooming …
… and the locals were inquisitive.
Once we hit the corduroy riprap, we knew we were getting close to the top.
We all thought it had been a great trip. We weren’t all the way back to the trailhead at Hermit’s Rest before we started talking about what backpack trip we should do with Dan next spring. We thought about Royal Arch Loop or Nankoweap. Or both!
All photos from this trip are on Flickr.
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