Update: Much change has occurred on the North Kaibab Trail since we hiked on it in 2011. On August 29, 2026, intense flash floods in Bright Angel Canyon caused major damage to the North Kaibab Trail, Phantom Ranch, and surrounding areas.
In May of 2011, we day-hiked Rim to Rim (R2R) on the North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails in Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona. John was 58 and I was 57.
We were able to get a very early start, 5:30 AM, because we had slept in our car just outside of the national park the night before. We had left our motorhome at the South Rim the day before and would retrieve it that evening after concluding this hike. There were a number of trail runners and younger day hikers who started about the same time as we did but they soon outdistanced us and we hiked in relative solitude.
It was chilly that morning and I started out wearing long underwear and a long-sleeved shirt.
We continued down the trail and got deeper into the canyon, always enjoying the changing views.
Eventually Roaring Springs came into view.
After learning that Roaring Springs provided water for all visitors and residents in Grand Canyon National Park, I was interested to see it for myself. It seemed like such a huge responsibility for just one water source. Its cascading flow feeds Bright Angel Creek, which would be our companion the rest of the way to the Colorado River.
The canyon opened up for a while …
… before narrowing to form what is affectionately known as “The Box.” This section of Bright Angel Canyon can be an oven during midday in the warmer months.
We took a welcome break at Phantom Ranch.
After we felt sufficiently rested and refueled, we continued and crossed Silver Bridge over the Colorado River.
We then started the hike up the Bright Angel Trail, and we were feeling the 14 miles we had already done. We took a break at Havasupai Gardens (previously known as Indian Garden). We got talking to a grey-haired fellow with a bushy mustache who was also heading up the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim. After we told him we were hiking Rim to Rim and had started from the North Rim that morning, he replied “Yeah, so did we. We started at the South Rim yesterday and hiked to the North Rim and spent the night. Today we’re headed back.” An impressive feat! We always enjoy meeting hikers and backpackers our age or older, especially when they are doing more than we are. They inspire us!
As the sun went down, we took our last look at the canyon in the deepening golden light. Then it was time to get our headlamps out. We had two miles to go. I can’t say I enjoyed those last few miles. We had already hiked over 20 miles at that point with significant elevation loss and gain. I just focused on the small, illuminated patch of trail ahead of me and kept putting one foot in front of the other.
I understand why the Park Service discourages hikers from doing it in one day. But I also understand why some, like us, insist on doing it. It is such an iconic hike, and it earns one some bragging rights. Once we reached the rim, we drove our motorhome to Camper Village with plans to drive back to the North Rim the following day. We were both quite tired and felt proud of ourselves.
All photos from this trip are on Flickr.
Leave a Reply