In 2012, we planned to spend three months exploring New Zealand, where trails are tracks and hikers are trampers. We were really looking forward to doing some tramping! We first visited the Department of Conservation (DOC) website and were overwhelmed by the many options. We learned that the DOC maintains an extensive system of backcountry huts. At the time, the website described three levels of tracks. Routes could be rough and steep, calling for considerable experience and good navigation skills. Tramping Tracks could be less clearly formed and required a high level of fitness, self-sufficiency, and the skills to navigate and cross rivers.
Finally, there were the Great Walks. These were easier, generally well-formed tracks with clear signs, conveniently located huts of a higher standard, and bridges across major streams and rivers. Ah, bridges! Now that got my attention. In our travels, we’ve had to cross a few rivers and streams, and they always make me nervous.
We decided to take the easy way out and focus our attention on the Great Walks. At that time, there were nine tracks designated as Great Walks. The DOC has since added two more. Our goal was to do as many as we could and we completed seven. I have included links to our trip reports in case you want to read more about our experiences and see more photos.
The first one we did was the Tongariro Northern Circuit on New Zealand’s North Island. This track is a loop so we didn’t have to make any other travel arrangements. On the first day we were introduced to what the DOC considers a “hut”. Waihohonu Hut was very new at the time and considered to be very luxurious. However, we chose to sleep in our tent.
The Waihohonu Hut on the Tongariro Northern Circuit in Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
This track takes trampers around the imposing Mount Ruapehu …
Mount Ruapehu seen on the Tongariro Northern Circuit in Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
… and past Lower Emerald Lake.
The following day, we had outstanding views of Mount Ngauruhoe and Red Crater. We thoroughly enjoyed our time on the Tongariro Northern Circuit. The track was largely well constructed and the views outstanding. We wholeheartedly agree it is a great walk.
Mount Ngauruhoe and Red Crater seen on the Tongariro Northern Circuit in Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
The next Great Walk we did was Abel Tasman Coast Track in Abel Tasman National Park on New Zealand’s South Island. Mountains are our first love, but the novelty of a coastal hike was a treat. And this is a gorgeous one. We slept in our tent on this one as well. We took a boat to where we started.
Golden Bay seen from Separation Point in Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand
As is common with other coastal hikes, the trail may need to cross a headland.
Tasman Bay seen on Abel Tasman Coastal Track in Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand
The headlands were covered in lush trees …
Seen on Abel Tasman Coastal Track in Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand
… but still allowed for some great views. So yes, we thought it was great.
Then we did the Heaphy Track in Kahurangi National Park. We took a plane to the trailhead. We knew there was rain in the forecast, so we decided to stay in huts on this one.
Seen from the Heaphy Track in Kahurangi National Park, New Zealand
It started raining that first afternoon and continued through the following day. John did not take a single photo as we hiked across the Downs. The only photo we have of the area is the one he took from the air the previous day.
Part of the Heaphy Track seen from the air in Kahurangi National Park, New Zealand
On the third day we did our hike out. An unexpected treat was the outrageous trees.
Jean on the Heaphy Track in Kahurangi National Park, New Zealand
As we approached the coast and at the end of our hike, we saw the rushing waters of Wekakura Creek flowing into the Tasman Sea.
Seen on the Heaphy Track in Kahurangi National Park, New Zealand
Had you asked me then if I thought the Heaphy Track should be considered a Great Walk, I probably would have said no. But then we started talking to a local. We expressed some dismay at the heavy rain the previous day. He said “Ahhh, the Downs are lovely in the rain.” I realized we had allowed the rain to dampen our spirits, and we had let it get in our way of noticing how lovely the Downs were.
After the Heaphy, we did the Routeburn Track. It begins in Mount Aspiring National Park and ends in Fiordland National Park. Again, we opted to stay in the huts. We arranged to have our campervan driven to our exit point. The trail took us up and there were views of Routeburn Flats below.
Seen from the Routeburn Track in Mt Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
Our destination for the day was the hut near Routeburn Falls.
Routeburn Falls seen from the Routeburn Track within Mt Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
The following day we enjoyed this view from the top of Conical Hill.
Seen on the Routeburn Track in Mt Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
As we descended, we got views of Lake Mackenzie, our destination for the day.
But first, we needed to pass through the aptly named Enchanted Forest.
Seen from the Routeburn Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
On the last day of the trip, we hiked past the beautiful Earland Falls.
Jean and John on the Routeburn Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
We are partial to mountains, but we also love lakes, waterfalls and interesting trees. The Routeburn has it all! We think this track deserves to be called great.
And then we did the Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park. This track is a loop so no special arrangements needed to be made. The Kepler was constructed to relieve some of the pressure from the Milford Track. Due to a deteriorating weather forecast, we chose to stay in huts. It starts out through the woods …
Jean on the Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
… and skirts Lake Manapouri …
. … before heading to the mountains.
Jean on the Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
From the valley, …
Seen on the Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
… this track ascends to a ridge.
Jean on the Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
One of the many views from the ridge is of Lake Te Anau. Once again, we agreed with the DOC that the Kepler Track is great and deserves to be included in the list.
Lake Te Anau seen from the Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
We also did the Rakiura Track located on Stewart Island, off the southern coast of the South Island. We flew to the island and took a taxi to the trailhead. The track begins along the shore.
Seen on the Rakiura Track in Rakiura National Park on Stewart Island, New Zealand
The track then took us across the island through a dense forest …
Jean on the Rakiura Track in Rakiura National Park on Stewart Island, New Zealand
… until we came out on the other side.
Jean on the Rakiura Track in Rakiura National Park on Stewart Island, New Zealand
Should the Rakiura Track be considered a Great Walk? Given our bias towards mountains, it is no surprise that we began this trip with lower expectations than we had for the Routeburn and Kepler Tracks. We assumed there would be some beach walking and walking through the woods as the track crosses the small island. However, what came as an enjoyable surprise was hearing the calls and songs by a multitude of exotic birds including the elusive Kiwi. While it lacks stunning views, I can honestly say this is a great walk if you want to be entertained by a chorus of beautiful bird voices.
That brings us to the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park. Transportation involved catching a shuttle to a boat at the beginning and catching a boat and a bus at the end. This track has been dubbed “The finest walk in the world.” While we did not expect it to live up to this hyperbole, we did have high expectations. We stayed in huts because camping is not an option on this track.
Jean in Clinton Canyon on the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
The high point of this track is Mackinnon Pass and there are great views all around: of Mount Pillans …
Mount Pillans seen from Mackinnon Pass on the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
… Clinton Canyon, …
Clinton Canyon seen from Mackinnon Pass in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
… Mount Elliot, and Mount Balloon.
Mount Elliot and Mount Balloon seen from Mackinnon Pass on the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
The track descends the other side of Mackinnon Pass and follows Cascade Creek.
A short side trip takes trampers to Sutherland Falls (1,904 feet) which is believed to be the highest waterfall in New Zealand.
Sutherland Falls (1,904 feet) near the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
The track then follows the Arthur River…
… past the lovely McKay Falls.
If one is as lucky as we were, it will rain on the last day on the track. We were treated to views of what Fiordland is famous for, countless waterfalls spontaneously forming and pouring over the canyon’s edge.
Seen on the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand
We couldn’t have been happier with how our trip on the Milford Track turned out. While we were not prepared to call it “the finest walk in the world,” we both agree it is a great walk and worthy of its designation as one.
We love New Zealand and may return one day. The Great Walks gave us an introduction to what we could expect when hiking in a country that experiences as much rainfall as New Zealand does. Even the Great Walks are not without challenges. We encountered steep and extremely loose terrain.
We discovered tracks can still be deeply rutted in places.
We learned that New Zealand can be quite windy. After spending the day traversing the ridge on the Kepler Track in strong winds, the DOC Hut Warden was unsympathetic to the complaints by another tramper. She said if they didn’t have to “scoot on your bottom down the stairs then you had a good day.” Well, we hadn’t needed to do that so we had a good day.
We also learned that what may be a great track when it’s dry…
Trampers on the Heaphy Track in Kahurangi National Park, New Zealand – Photo courtesy of New Zealand DOC
… may be covered with water after significant rain. When we were preparing to head back out on the Heaphy Track in the pouring rain, I heard the DOC Hut Warden casually recount a time when water over the boardwalk (pictured above) was “chest deep”. She went on to say that it had been “no problem.” Prior to that I had never imagined I would ever hear the words “chest-deep” water and “no problem” in the same sentence. During heavy rain, other tracks, such as the Milford, can disappear and finding one’s way requires following tall trail markers.
Trampers on the Milford Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand – Photo courtesy of New Zealand DOC
When researching other tracks, we learned that any bridge …
… is better than no bridge.
Trampers on Whakapapaiti Valley Track in Tongariro National Park, New Zealand – Photo from New Zealand DOC
We have done many backpack trips since our time in New Zealand and have experienced a wide variety of trails, something I have written about. I like to think that our experiences on New Zealand’s Great Walks and our research into the more challenging Tramping Tracks have helped me to learn how to face adversity with at least a little bit of a Kiwi’s adaptability, resiliency and cheerful attitude.
Tramper on the Dusky Track in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand – Photo by Jonathan Esper
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